Well, I keep seeing this stuff and it just comes a-rolling in
And you know it blows right through me like a ball and chain
You know I can't believe we've lived so long and are still so far apart
The memory of you keeps callin' after me like a rollin' train
Bob Dylan
Who in their right mind drives three hours for lunch? (I mean besides Pak. And Jim Harrison.)
I pull in to Nepenthe at exactly one o’clock. I take a seat at the bar that gives me a partial view of the ocean. I’m thrilled, even though I planed on not drinking, to see a Domaine de Terrebrune Rosé by the glass. A rare find and I can’t resist. After all, why travel and run across the unique and the new if not to enjoy the finer fruits of experience. We won’t talk about price but the single glass was more expensive than my wild caught shrimp sandwich. And worth, I must add, every penny. I linger for a while savoring the wine and reading the new Julian Barnes book.
The Henry Miller Museum is closed unfortunately. Usually I stop and poke around. Sometimes I buy a book.
I always forget about the zebras. But then there they are peacefully grazing in a pasture within view of the highway. I pull over and watch them for a while. They are so out of place but somehow appropriate. They are the descendants of zebras that William Hearst imported from Africa in the twenties for his zoo at Casa Granda high above San Simeon.
I look up hotels and find a relatively reasonable deal on Moonstone Beach. The Little Sur Inn. My room is big, clean and also has a view of the ocean. I stroll along the boardwalk and then sit on a log and watch the sun set. The horizon glows orange for another twenty minutes.
Once again, randomly, I am in Cambria on a Tuesday night. The only night of the week that The Sea Chest is closed. So, The Moonstone Grill it is. I sit out side and eat scallops in a very sweet glaze. It’s tolerable because they are fresh. I have my second glass of wine of the day, a red from Hearst Ranch. I walk back to my room via the beach path. Orion is high in the sky and I give Betelgeuse a glance hoping to detect it’s recent fading but I am, of course, too far away and without a proper telescope.
I get a text from Suellen telling me Chip will be in Santa Barbara tomorrow. Well, I can’t miss that so I plan on cutting my getaway short. I’m a little reluctant but, after all, seeing Chip is always a fine time.
Early March. Spring, and there are even scents of Summer in the air. The tide is low and I walk back and forth from Leadbetter to the breakwater. There is a crowd at the Beachside Cafe. I see my first whale of the year. The waves glisten in the sun and sandpipers scurry across the sand. I wonder how I would go about nominating the designer of the thong for a Nobel prize.
I was thinking about what Kurt Vonnegut’s daughter Edie remembers him telling her, that in the grand scheme of things they were really only seconds apart. A lot of stuff they were together experiencing for the first time. I know age can seem like a great distance between two people but the great expanses of time can really shrink that distance. We are closer than we think. I’ve always thought that. Age has less importance to me with my friends than do things like integrity or honesty or curiosity. I have friends from 10 to 92. And I receive wisdom and love from all directions.
Well, it’s official. Santa Barbara county closed all bars and restaurants. I am out of work for a few weeks. Bad timing, but I’ll manage. I can’t help but feel that there is some amount of overreacting here. The financial repercussions are going to be deep. Deeper, I think, than people realize. So on these past windy and cold days the streets are deserted and Shoreline Park is relatively empty. Even Gelson’s Market was not as crazy as I was told. Although it was cleaned out of asswhipe, produce, bread and sanitizer. Lines moved pretty quick and everyone was polite and considerate. I really didn’t need anything that was critical. I picked up some soups, ramen, frozen pizzas, pretzels, and some canned vegetables. I have plenty of water and vitamin C to last over a week. So I’m not particularly worried.
Hauge came up last night bringing supplies; fried chicken, cheeses and meats, bread and crackers. Tequila for him, red wine for me. We sit around the table for a few hours telling our old stories and wondering just what the fuck is going to happen next. We are worried that it’s going to get worse before it gets better. He has an early flight so we call it a night by eleven. Reluctantly.
I hear his alarm go off before four. We say goodbye and I wish him safe travels. (Which he has) I’m wide awake but too antsy to read. I decide on a walk in the dark. The sky is beautiful. There are some cold clouds but when they disperse a little I see Jupiter and Mars. A waning slice of moon hangs low in the eastern sky and reflects on the calm water. Sunrise is still an hour away. I listen to the gentle waves and am thrilled to see a meteor far above the ocean. Shivering, I head home to warm up and have some tea. The sky is slowly starting to brighten. California institutes a travel ban. Hauge texts safely from Phoenix. He’s in first class loading up on vitamin C. Perhaps fortified with vodka. He doesn’t say.
Pak calls, sadly we have to cancel the week at Sea Ranch. We will survive, but I was really looking forward to it. It’s one of the highlights of my year. I’m hoping we can reschedule as soon as the world becomes normal again.
I spend the rest of the day reading and writing. Everybody is checking up on everybody else. Hauge makes it home safe. I receive many heartfelt offers of help if I need it. Which right now, thank Zeus, I do not. But, anything can happen. Time will tell...